How to Check the Quality of Second-Hand Office Furniture Before Buying

Buying second-hand office furniture can save you 50-70% compared to new. But only if you buy the right stuff. Get it wrong and you're stuck with a wobbly desk, a chair that kills your back, or a filing cabinet that jams every time you open it.

Here's how to spot quality - and avoid the duds.

The 30-Second First Impression

Before you get into the details, trust your gut on these three things:

• Does it look like it came from a proper office environment? Corporate clearance stock is generally better maintained than furniture that's been sitting in someone's garage.

• Is the seller a specialist or just shifting random stuff? Dedicated second-hand office furniture dealers inspect and often refurbish stock. Random marketplace sellers don't.

• Does the price make sense? If a Herman Miller Aeron is listed for £50, something's wrong. Either it's broken, fake, or about to be.

How to Inspect Office Chairs

Chairs take the most punishment in any office. They're also where quality matters most - a bad chair affects your health.

Frame and base

Rock the chair side to side. Any flex or creaking in the frame is a bad sign. Check the base - five-star bases should be sturdy with no cracks. Plastic bases on cheap chairs crack over time. Metal or reinforced nylon lasts longer.

Gas lift

Sit in the chair and raise it to maximum height. Leave it for a minute. If it slowly sinks, the gas lift is failing. This is the most common issue with used chairs. Replaceable, but factor £20-40 into your cost.

Tilt mechanism

Test every adjustment. Recline, tilt tension, seat depth if it has one. Mechanisms should move smoothly without grinding or sticking. Stiff adjustments often mean internal damage or seized parts.

Armrests

If the chair has adjustable arms, test them. They should lock firmly in position. Wobbly armrests are annoying and usually unfixable without replacement parts.

Upholstery and mesh

Check fabric for stains, tears, and wear patterns. Seat edges wear first - look there. For mesh chairs (Aerons, Mirras), check for sagging, holes, or loose edges where mesh meets the frame. Mesh replacement is expensive.

Lumbar support

If the chair has adjustable lumbar, test it. It should move smoothly and hold position. Fixed lumbar should feel supportive, not flattened.

Castors

Roll the chair. Castors should move freely without dragging or veering. Hair and debris wrapped around the wheels is common - usually cleanable. Cracked or seized castors need replacing.

The smell test

Sit in the chair properly for a minute. Any musty or stale odour? Fabric absorbs smells over time. Some can be cleaned out. Others can't.

How to Inspect Desks

Desks are simpler than chairs - fewer moving parts. But there are still things to check.

Surface condition

Look for scratches, chips, dents, and ring marks. Minor surface wear is normal and often fixable. Deep gouges or delaminating edges are harder to address.

Run your hand across the surface. It should be smooth. Rough patches suggest damage or poor-quality laminate.

Structural stability

Push down on the desktop and try to rock it. Any movement suggests loose joints or damaged frame. Check underneath for cracks in the frame, loose screws, or previous repair attempts.

Legs and feet

Are all feet present and adjustable? Missing feet cause wobble. Metal legs should be free of rust. Wooden legs shouldn't have cracks or splits.

Drawers and pedestals

Open and close every drawer. They should slide smoothly on runners without sticking or falling off track. Check drawer bases for sagging - a sign of overloading. Test locks if fitted.

Cable management

Does the desk have cable ports, grommets, or trunking? Older desks often lack these. Not a dealbreaker, but worth noting. Retrofitting is possible but adds cost.

Sit-stand desks

If it's electric, test the full range of motion. Listen for grinding or struggling motors. Check the control panel works. Electric mechanisms are expensive to repair.

How to Inspect Storage

Filing cabinets, cupboards, bookcases, pedestals - all similar principles.

Drawers and doors

Open everything. Drawers should extend fully and retract smoothly. Doors should close flush without force. Check hinges for rust or looseness.

Locks

If the unit has locks, test them. Missing keys are common - ask if replacements are available. Generic filing cabinet keys are often interchangeable.

Internal condition

Look inside. Check for rust spots (especially in metal units), water damage marks, or warped shelves. Smell for damp or mildew.

Weight capacity

Filing cabinets filled with paper are heavy. Check the cabinet feels solid and doesn't flex. Dented or bulging sides suggest previous overloading.

Red Flags to Walk Away From

Some issues aren't worth the hassle:

• Persistent odours - smoke, damp, mildew. Deep-set smells rarely come out completely.
• Rust on structural components - surface rust can be treated, but rust on load-bearing parts compromises strength.
• Signs of pest infestation - check seams, joints, and hidden areas for droppings or damage.
• Missing key components - a chair without armrests or a desk without feet might seem fine, but sourcing replacements for specific models can be difficult and expensive.
• "Too good to be true" pricing - very low prices often mean hidden problems or stolen goods.

Brands That Hold Up Well

Not all furniture ages equally. These brands are worth seeking out second-hand because they're built to last:

Chairs: Herman Miller, Steelcase, Humanscale, Orangebox, HAG, Sedus, Giroflex

Desks: Steelcase, Senator, Bene, Vitra, USM

Storage: Bisley, Silverline, Senator

Generic unbranded furniture is rarely worth buying second-hand. If it wasn't built to last when new, it won't improve with age.

Questions to Ask the Seller

• Where did the furniture come from? Corporate clearances are generally better than random sources.
• How old is it? Manufacturing dates are often on labels underneath.
• What's your return policy? Reputable dealers offer at least 14 days.
• Is there a warranty? Good refurbishers offer 12 months on chairs.
• Can I see more photos? If buying online, request images of specific areas - underneath, joints, mechanisms.
• Has anything been repaired or replaced? Not necessarily a problem, but worth knowing.

Buying Online vs In Person

In person is always better if possible. You can test everything, spot issues photos miss, and avoid delivery surprises.

Online works if you're buying from a reputable dealer with clear photos, detailed descriptions, and a solid return policy. Avoid marketplace sellers who won't let you inspect first.

The Refurbished Difference

• "Used" and "refurbished" aren't the same thing.
• Used means sold as-is, with whatever wear it has.
• Refurbished means inspected, cleaned, repaired where needed, and restored to a sellable standard. Good refurbishers replace gas lifts, fix mechanisms, reupholster seats, and refinish surfaces.

Refurbished typically costs slightly more but comes with a warranty and fewer surprises. For chairs especially, it's usually worth the premium.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is it safe to buy second-hand office chairs?

- Yes, if you inspect properly. The main concerns are hygiene (cleanable) and mechanical wear (testable). Buy from reputable sources and you'll be fine.

How can I tell if a chair is genuine branded furniture?

- Check for manufacturer labels - usually underneath the seat or on the base. Research the model online and compare details. Fakes exist but are relatively rare in the office furniture market.

What if I find a problem after buying?

- If you bought from a dealer, check their return policy. Most offer 14 days minimum. If you bought privately, you have limited recourse - another reason to inspect thoroughly before committing.

Can damaged furniture be repaired?

- Depends on the damage. Gas lifts, castors, and armrests are usually replaceable. Cracked frames, torn mesh, and structural damage are harder to fix economically.